Student Contributor: Amandha Triay
When I was younger I learned that I had a gift when it came to helping the people around me with transforming their looks. Whether it be simply changing the shape of their eyebrow or enhancing their haircolor, which to be honest at the time was box dye.. Either way, I knew I was destined to be a stylist. As a stylist you are able to help others and make them feel good about themselves. By attending Renaissance Academie that’s exactly what I’m doing. Improving my skills while helping my clients through their transformation journey.
Today, I had the pleasure of transforming a client whom is dear to my heart, my sister in law Sammie. She is a loving mother of an energetic little boy and is expecting a little girl. Like most mothers, Sammie finds herself very busy and failing to find time for herself. Seeing how hard she works for her family, I presented her with the opportunity to give her a much needed hair makeover. She agreed and here is how our process began:
First things first, we began with our client consultation. Together we reviewed Sammie’s her hair history. She is looking to achieve a platinum blonde look. She has previously colored her hair at home with a dark burgundy color made with argan oil that she purchased from Sally’s Beauty Supply. Sammie decided after six months of darkness and fading she would attempt to bleach it to a platinum blonde herself, which as you can imagine, didn’t go over so well.
Color Key Facts :
Natural Level: Level 6
Percentage of Gray: 0%
Existing Level: Natural level 6 [3in of re-growth]. On midshaft level 8 dark yellow and level 6 orange gold.
Target Level: Level 10 Platinum Blonde
DRP: Level 6 orange gold
Here is the picture Sammie showed during her consultation:
My process began with doing a full head bleach application using TIGI True Light White [advanced high performance lightener] with TIGI 20 Volume Developer. Mixing ration 1:1. I sectioned her hair into a T-part, using 1/8″ partings, I applied the bleach to dry hair from the line of demarcation through the ends. I applied to both sides of the hair to ensure even saturation. I began to process until the desired color was visible. After about 30 minutes of processing time and only a level of lift I placed a plastic cap on my clients hair and placed her under the heated hair dryer for 15 minutes. At this point Sammie’s hair seemed to stop lightening so I elected to wash out the lightener. At this point her hair had become lighter, but was still very mauve in tone.
I still wanted to make an effort to achieve my clients desired hair goal and do what I could to save her hair from further damage so we decided to reapply bleach only this time using a full head slicing placement method. Slicing allowed me to bring a substantial amount of controlled lightener throughout the entire head. I alternated my products with TIGI True Light White with TIGI 20 volume developer along with TIGI 10 volume developer mixed into a separate bowl. When slicing I took caution and took only 1/8″ into each foil this helped to confirm full saturation. I applied the bleach in a vertical, feather like movement to avoid horizontal striping and unwanted swelling [spotting].
For her remaining new growth left out during the slicing method I did a paint between. Applying TIGI 100/88 High Lift Creme Emulsion mixed with TIGI 30 volume activator. Mixing ration for this is 1:1.5. This lightened her virgin roots beautifully as it counteracted any unwanted tones. I applied to both sides of the hair and any darkened areas. Processing time is 35 minutes at room temperature, meaning, you do not need to use heat.
I continued to check the lightening as the processed within the foils. At this point Sammie’s roots were lifting well, but not quiet the pale yellow [level 9/10] and the orange gold on her mid-shafts have gone from the mauve color to a pale pink. So there is some lifting, but the red just is not pulling out of her hair. Could the dye Sammie had mentioned she used, have actually been a stain..?
After checking her foils we used a balayage technique, to create natural looking highlights. Mixing another batch of TIGI True Light White with TIGI 10 volume developer. Letting it sit while the foils and High Lift process.
It became apparent that Sammie would not be leaving my chair with the platinum blonde hair that she had desired. I informed her that she will have to leave today with a pastel color, which by the way, everyone [even myself] are dying to have. Any further processing or any other application may compromise the health of her hair. At the conclusion of the service Sammie tells me that she is just happy and beyond happy to have her dark roots gone!
I checked her foils one last time and was happy to see the level 9 we were looking for. Some of the areas are as white as can be; however, there is still the pink tint in her mid-shaft. I washed her out with Bed Head Dumb Blonde Shampoo to help reconstruct and repair her chemically treated hair and paired it with the Bed Head Colour Goddess Conditioner to help smooth down the hairs cuticle. I was gentle in my massage of her head and hair as she had been through quite a journey.
Sammie’s hair seems to be in really good condition, given whats its been through in the last few hours. Before I blow dry it, I apply some of my favorite hair care products. Catwalk Blowout Balm to add gloss and smoothness, Catwalk Split-End Repair for added nourishment, and Catwalk Leave-In Conditioner, helping to deliver intense moisture to her dry frizzy prone hair. Together these products will leave her hair soft and smooth. It is best to work each product from the roots to ends of towel dried hair before combing through thoroughly.
STYLIST TIP: I like to work the product into my hands to help massage it into the hair.
Finally, I begin to blow dry her hair, flat wrapping to remove 85% of the moisture, using my fingers to direct hair back and forth around her head. Next, I use my large TIGI Round Brush to bevel the clients hair. Working in 2″x 2″ sections 3 to 4 times each with maximum tension. Focus on the ends for shape and adding a cold shot to close the cuticle and lock the shape. To finalize her look we throw on some loose curls using a mixture of the TIGI Curling Wand and the TIGI Flat Iron and spraying Bed Heads Masterpiece Hair Spray to hold the style.
The final result has become visible. We have ended up with a very beautiful rose gold ombre. Even though it wasn’t the final outcome my client was looking for, she is happy with her final hair transformation.
Before Sammie leaves I advise her to return within the next few weeks to follow up with a deep conditioning treatment to help restore moisture and prevent further damage.
On a final note, I would like to thank my instructor Mandy and fellow students Jesyka and Carolyn for helping through my clients hair transformation.